62d 35m 43.8s S, 59d 54m 11.6s W (WP111)

Our journey continued back through the English Strait to a cloistered island in the shape of a half moon (or rather crescent), but enough to provide a unique backdrop, but still in the South Shetland Islands. An Argentine naval base, Camara, welcomed us, and our ship, the Polar Pioneer, had astutely flown the Argentine colours when we docked. Camara has been perched there since 1953 and it really is just an outpost for the Argentine navy, and may be had some science history. This was our first introduction to the fascinating and evolving geo-political scene in the northern Antarctic area, as there are many countries who claim jurisdiction here, but actually, no country owns Antarctica per the treaty ratified by many countries back in 1959. As we would continue our journey, we would see brightly coloured huts, with large flags designating the country of origin (Spain, Argentina, Chile, etc.) reminding us of the continued human presence here.

62d 24m 21.8s S, 59m 44m 23.9s W (WP103)

So yes, Antarctica is indeed the land of white, the land of ice and snow, the land of awesome glaciers and towering icebergs. But we had a surprise when we visited the Aitcho Island to the NW of the Peninsula (technically back in the South Shetland Islands), teeming with life and the most flora (plants) we would see. Yes, the plants were just algae and lichens, but they carpeted these beautiful volcanic islands with style in hues of green and orange-pink.

Our short stint on this picturesque island took is through thousands of Gentoo and Chinstrap penguins. Elephant seals (the southern variety) were seen on the beach. And we encountered lots of South American Skuas (large, brown birds which are the local tyrants).

As we walked along the beaches, we stumbled upon the bones of many a great whale. Whaling was quite prominent in these parts up to the 1950s (peak in the 1910s-1930s), and these haunting bones were indeed a reminder of the past.

63d 11m 41.2s S, 57d 18m 28.6s W (WP097)

Our final stop for our first day in Antarctic waters was at Gourdin Island, just on the east side of the northernmost tip of the Antarctic Peninsula. Here there were harems of fur seals, and hundreds of Chinstrap and Gentoo with a few Adelie penguins. We went on a short hike to the ridge (384 ft) to get a great view of the Antarctic continent and the ice-infested waters. The top of Gourdin Island had a the rusted remains of a lookout or beacon post. I don’t know its dating, but it stood out among the otherwise untouched beautiful wilderness.

The icebergs in this area had ‘tide-marks’ or horizontal striping. These icebergs are ‘beached’ and the residual markings is due to the erosion by ebb & flow of wind & water of being stuck in that place in the ocean.

It was a very fine day as I took in all the new delights. I will admit I was disappointed not to see Elephant Island or the Weddell Sea. A return trip is needed, but then again, it would always be subject to the changing conditions of this amazing place. Changing conditions, I was learning, was the norm, not the exception. Antarctica was living up to its promise of being a place of extremes.

63d 36m 25.6s S, 56d 45m 08.5s W (WP092)

At this point in the journey, it was clear a course change last night prevented us from reaching Elephant Island. I was disappointed. With the change in weather, it was hoped we were going to reach Devil’s Island in the Weddell  Sea, but the pack ice had come in and prevented passage. So in consolation, we did a tour of the local bay where I got a glimpse of “sea ice” which forms only when the salt water freezes, a much lower point than the typical icebergs, which are frozen fresh water from glaciers on the continent. We had some neat “tabular icebergs” (100s of meters in length) that were on their own journey to the sea. It was fun to see a leopard seal and crab-eater seals sitting atop these tabular icebergs, another part of their lifecycle when the ice is their home.

After a tour, the Polar Pioneer tried to sail between Tabarin and Anderson Island but had trouble with the ice. Tried a third time to get to Paulet Island via the Erebus and Terror Gulf, but got turned back. A final course correction to bring us east was made by dinner time and I had to say goodbye to the Weddell Sea. Another thing I had just gotten a glimpse of, but was held back.

63d 31m 16.9s S, 56d 52m 57.4s W (WP087)

Donned in our wellies, we embarked on our first landing on the Antarctic Peninsula, a place called Brown Bluff, due to an outcropping of exposed granite with a brown hue. It’s the home of two types of penguins, the Gentoo (easily spotted by their distinct white patch behind the eye and red-orange beak & feet) and Adelie (my favourite by far, with their full black heads and blue ringed eyes). There was apparently a lone Chinstrap penguin but I did not see him.

We all got instruction on how to interact with the wildlife and to always make sure we don’t place ourselves between the animals and the sea, which is their home & safety. Keeping a safe distance from the curious Gentoos did not last long when they started to come up to us and peck at our boots & bags and exchange the same curiosity as us. We spent some time just observing a variety of “penguin behaviour” be it feeding chicks, to sunbathing, to swimming, to climbing snow-packed hills, to tummy-sliding, to stealing rocks from other penguins, to chasing someone else’s hungry chick. Seals on the beach, mainly fur seals, added to the dynamics with their grunts and slanted looks for us apparently disturbing their sleep. A snow petrel chick was ensconced away under the rocks.

The 360 degree scenery with snow capped granite peaks, black volcanic beach, and chunks of ice in the surrounding sea, really was amazing.